Brunei-Muara
Contemporary luxuries abound. Rustic surprises await.
Though small in size, Brunei-Muara is of great importance to the nation as the district housing Brunei’s capital, Bandar Seri Begawan. As such, it is usually the first stop of any visitor to Brunei — and one of the most memorable. Outside the capital lie some of the nation’s most world-renowned attractions.
The golden spires adorning Istana Nurul Iman, home of the nation’s revered monarch, His Majesty The Sultan, form a striking backdrop for a spectacular Bruneian sunset. The lavish residence has achieved legendary status as the largest palace in the world and features a unique blend of contemporary and traditional Islamic architecture. But there is nothing traditional — or expected — about Brunei Muara’s other famous attraction, Jerudong Park Playground, the state-of-the-art amusement park that was once the playground of royalty.
to ultra modern chrome and glass skyscrapers; and from imperial India’s Parliament House and the President’s Palace to the never ending bustle of the walled city surrounding Jama Masjid. Delhi also makes the ideal base for a series of short excursions to neighbouring places, all connected by road.
The KTX express train from Yongsan Station to the small fishing village of Mokpo is efficient and comfortable, that is if you’re not bringing a mountain bike on board. But the kindness of the staff and the curious gazes of kids watching as they chew on pink songpyeon (bean-filled rice cakes) while steadying the bike amongst cars and fellow passengers heading home for the holiday already makes bringing it along worthwhile. Down on the southern end of the peninsula, downtown Mokpo City has sort of a melancholy feel, with interesting architecture and many elevated points to observe the harbor shutting down for the night.
After just 15 minutes of pedaling, hard work but bracing, I start to notice the touch of autumn on the skin of ripe pears and apples in the passing orchards. The smells of all the locally grown fruits are so invigorating, every deep breath is almost like drinking a cup of plum juice." 
The morning is fresh and sunny, and all is ready on the New Sea world Express Ferry. The sea journey from Mokpo to Jeju is approximately five hours, but instead of wondering what time the ferry arrives at Jeju Harbor, it’s better to find a good spot on the ship's top deck. It’s a little noisy as the ferry’s engines roar and kaboom like a high school marching band welcoming you to open water. Everyone on board is energized and smiling in one degree or another. And finally, when the ferry is past sight of land and all around is sparkling blue and white breaking waves, well, you know for sure that you’re not breathing air from the big city anymore.
After such a day, the trip to Jeju has already been well worth it, but cycling around the island is another fun and rewarding accomplishment. I had already once resided in a four-month temple-stay at the glorious Yakcheon-sa Temple, and knew I would have to spend the day on the bike along the National Highway 7 to get there again. Pacing myself, I try to pedal hard downhill in order to peddle less going uphill. The lack of traffic on the Chuseok holiday makes the cycling less strenuous and I can concentrate on the surroundings and not focus on avoiding automobiles. One thing for sure is that the charming bed & breakfast-style of accommodation is catching on in Jeju-do. The range spans he gamut from super new luxury hotels and the basic sleep-on-the-floor with a mattress accommodation available, but it’s the rustic way, the slow-down-the-pace and enjoy-the-space way that is so appealing. These B&Bs are often demarcated with grey medium height stone fences — once again, all natural. 
This trip was a mixture of athletic event and sightseeing, and I expect to reach the temple by sunset. Wondrous smells and colors keep flying by, yet once again it’s the genuine Jeju people who are the most refreshing part of the trek. When a man wearing a farmer’s smock watched me hop off my bike to fetch some water, he came over and offered me his black round sunglasses. I didn’t take them because I didn’t need them, but now for some reason, I wish I had taken them. I ask about Yakcheon-sa Temple and he smiles and points, and I’m on my way again. It wasn’t crowded, being the holiday, and when I approached the world’s largest main hall in a temple, once again possessed By a sense of wonder at its awesome structure and, more subtly, the gentle loss of time in everyday life. I was able to stay the night in my old room rereading some sijopoems and watching the moon:
